Soulman

Posted: December 1, 2010 at 8:06 pm

This d/p sequence appeared in the 1980 June issue of Surfer Magazine of the late Geoff Solness scoring a bomb on a solid and mean day at The Island. Soulman was one of the regular standouts around this time. I was out this day taking photos with my nikonos when this wave came through it was the scariest and biggest Island pit I had ever seen up to that point and after snapping my shot I bolted for the horizon. Soulman was cool as a cucumber and unfazed by the lip going square. Notice the red Rip Curl wetsuit. This was the very beginning of 80’s fluro and no longer in the stone-age when it was compulsory to wear  black wetties and ride white surfboards only. Photos Darryl Jones.

Posted in Shark Island