Posted: August 21, 2011 at 12:26 pm
This pic of Jezza was taken out at 4th Left early 90’s. It was the first time I had paddled out there and it felt like it took forever and we were out in the middle of the ocean. It was sketchy out there trying to lineup. I remember Banksy telling me a story he was out surfing here alone when he saw a shark pop up with a head the size of a VW bonnet. Anyway not many people surf out here and I now know why. When I got back to shore my gear I thought stashed safetly in the rocks including car keys had washed away due to the incoming tide. Luckily I found them and the rest of the stuff scattered down the beach about 50 yards away. Photo Jeremy Hrbac pic Stroh
Posted in 90's