Occy ’83

Occy was out this day at Midway, this was when he was just starting to blow up riding his Banksy and sponsored by Peak. It was only small but clean and he was surfing a left rip bowl. I swam out and first wave he was right on top of me, I don’t even know if he knew I was there. Anyway the smart thing to do was to dive under the wave or risk having my head taken off. Well I must have been feeling extra stupid this day as he hit the lip I snapped it with my Nikonos as he sailed overhead. When he landed I felt his fins just brush my back as I tried to get away. Another near miss . Words and photos Chris Stroh.