Island Swell 1980.

It was  in March 1980 when the ocean served up a massive easterly swell. It was overcast and rainy which made it look ever scarier than it was.  The Island was maxing out but still ride able in between the closeout sets. Jim Banks was easily the standout amongst only a handful of takers. Banksy rode one of his  Hawaiian guns and wrote a story about the day in Tracks which stirred up a bit of controversy with a few jealous locals. This shot by Peter Simons was from that day.