Shark Island Session May 1979 Words Greg Hourigan and photos Tim Vanderlaan

That day was classic I was riding a 6-6 rounded pin single fin Southern Comfort by Yorkie with no leggie because I liked to ditch it if

 anything happened. Those days the barnacles were growing off the back like shot gun cartridges. Not the best thing to have out the corner of your eyes.

          I saw it coming from the right direction and took off on the outside reef and stayed next to the foam ball until it hit the inside reef so that I could be as far inside as possible then set the rail in the line and put the brakes on by sticking my hand in the face until the lip came over ala MP.Then it was the full tilt adrenalin tunnel time and you know I came out clean.Thats the question most asked.

Col Eagle had that photo in his shop at Cabarita for years with signed caps over it from Cheynne Horan, Kelly Slater and more, and he reckons Kelly said it was one of the best.

Greg paddles over a big one